CUT N SEW APPAREL SERVICES
PATTERN & GRADING
A pattern is created to produce prototypes or complete production runs. It is used throughout the production process. If there is no pattern the sample maker will have no direction. Patterns are the template of style and measurement. They communicate all necessary information to create perfect garments.
Pattern makers create patterns that are passed off to cutters and sample makers that are then used to create well-constructed garments.
NEED TO KNOW INFORMATION
To communicate properly with the pattern maker the designer should be prepared with the following:
- how the finished garment should look; front and back sketches, technical flats.
- design, shape, fit, measurements and placement of all details for each garment.
The pattern maker works with this provided information, along with front and back sketches, technical flats, and spec sheets. All details from width of pant leg, spacing between pleats, special linings, specific types of seams, etc. are needed to expedite the completion of each pattern and garment/product.
Starting base price for any pattern is $150 which includes up to 5 pieces. Each additional piece needed for the garment is $15 each.
- We consider a typical t-shirt to consist of 5 pieces; Front, Back, Left Sleeve, Right Sleeve and Collar.
- A Hooded sweatshirt, for example, would consist of 10 pieces; Front, Back, Waistband, Left Sleeve, Right Sleeve, Left Cuff, Right Cuff, Front Pocket, Left Hood, Right Hood.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
The process begins by draping on a form or drafting from pattern making software. From this step several rounds of adjustments are made. Pattern makers repeatedly measure, mark, re-measure and re-mark until all fit needs/requirements are accomplished and all design/style lines are created. From the initial paper pattern, muslin is cut and sewn into the garment used in the first fitting.
Based on the designer’s feedback in regard to the garment/product shown in the first fitting, the pattern maker will then revisit the original pattern and make the adjustments necessary to perfect the pattern. From this second pattern a second fitting garment/product is cut and sewn, and another fitting is conducted. Again, the designer gives feedback and from this feedback final adjustments are made to the pattern.
Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of re-sizing the initial pattern is called “grading.” Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.
There are no standard sample sizes in the garment or pattern industry. Each manufacturer sets its own base pattern measurements and grades patterns based on a specific customer base. Grades can differ between industries, companies, and even different product lines. This is why one size 8 can be different from another size 8 (i.e., different base pattern measurements) and why the difference between a size 8 and 10 can vary between two different companies.
SAMPLING & PRODUCTION
Cut and sew manufacturing is a serious undertaking for any fashion designer or brand especially when first starting out. The importance of selecting a professional cut and sew contractor to produce your garments cannot be understated. By choosing Massive Prints, not only are you guaranteeing the smoothest possible manufacturing process, you’re also choosing a professional contractor who will ensure the construction and creation of your custom cut and sew apparel is of the highest quality from your very first sample, all the way through to large-scale production.
TYPES OF CUT AND SEW GARMENT SAMPLES
Sampling is a complex procedure. As thousands of garments or even hundreds of thousands of garments may be produced in the manufacturing process, the importance of sampling cannot be understated. Although the sampling process may seem long or complicated, sampling in the garment production industry is just as important if not more so than actual production.
PHASE ONE: GARMENT CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
Before a prototype sample is made at Massive Prints, our experienced patternmakers and seamstresses inspect a provided pattern. Before we begin making a single cut or sew a single stitch, our highly trained sewing professionals determine any issues which may arise from the pattern. In this way, if we know there’s something wrong with a pattern, we’ll work to correct that before creating a sample.
Prototype samples are as their name suggests simple, primitive samples intended to display the most simplistic version of the garment intended to inspect the garment’s intended construction, measurements, and style. Prototype samples are meant to communicate the essential structure of a garment. Prototype samples are never fitted, and they may be constructed of similar analog fabric instead of the final fabric selection (this is especially true when fabric sourcing has not yet been completed).
PHASE TWO: FABRIC SOURCING
Salesman samples are produced in a single size and are provided to the fashion designer or brand. From there, the designer or brand passes the samples along to salesmen. Salesmen then show the samples to different retailers. Salesman samples are commonplace, but in the age of Internet marketing, the “salesman” aspect of these samples has become somewhat less relevant. Nevertheless, salesman samples are still usually provided to the customer.
SIZE SET SAMPLES
The purpose of a size set sample is to test the garment’s construction and measurements in all sizes. What works on an XS garment may not work on a 2XL garment more stitches or reinforcement may be necessary on the larger garment. Producing a set of samples to size helps Massive Prints determine any issues which may arise from sizing concerns.
PHASE THREE: GARMENT PRODUCTION DEVELOPMENT
PRE-PRODUCTION GARMENT SAMPLES
Pre-production samples are the garment exactly as it is going to be constructed on large-scale production. Pre-production samples are created in the exact same way as the garment will eventually be produced. Pre-production samples are created using the source fabric, trimmings, and all other materials.
TOP OF PRODUCTION GARMENT SAMPLES
TOP samples aren’t very important to the customer buyers and designers rarely, if ever, see these samples. Nonetheless, TOP samples are extremely important for the garment manufacturing process. TOP samples ensure the garments can be produced at a large scale rather than the small, individual sample piece scale. Additionally, TOP samples ensure the manufacturer can meet quality expectations when producing on a larger scale.
CUT AND SEW GARMENT SAMPLING
Massive Prints can bring any pattern or tech pack into life with a showroom quality sample of your custom-created garment.
CUT AND SEW GARMENT SAMPLING COSTS
Pre-production samples are included free of charge with any production order. The sampling prices listed in this table are based on a sample of only our cut and sew work. This pricing does not include fabric, sewing patterns, or other decoration.
- T-Shirts $75.00
- Tank Tops $75.00
- Sweatshirts $100.00
- Polo Shirts $125.00
- Henleys $125.00
- Hoodies $150.00
- Long Sleeve Shirts $100.00
- Sweatpants $100.00
- Shorts $50.00
- Leggings or $75.00
Don’t see what you’re looking for? Don’t worry we can do it. Give us a call to discuss your unique request and we will make it happen.